As far as fantasies go I thought this was relatively achievable. The dream was to go to Delicado by myself, grab an outside table, and as the wind rippled through my hair I’d enjoy a nice glass of Spanish wine while tucking into some tapas and a good book. There I would revel in the pleasure of my own company and only make an exception when a gorgeous North Shore maiden, no doubt unable to resist my lone wolf nature and wind-swept locks, would swoop down and insist on ravishing me in her McMahons Point mansion while her slaves made us cocktails.

Like I said, I thought it was relatively achievable.

Sitting outside was a crucial part of the fantasy since I’d come to Delicado once before on a Saturday afternoon and sat inside next to the kitchen and deli counter (you can also buy Spanish smallgoods here) where I then felt cooped up and claustrophobic (I was, however, happy with my glass of the 2003 Toscar tempranillo wine and my bocadillo [roll] filled with jamon [Spanish ham, which is similar to prosciutto]).

Yet when I arrive this evening my fantasy rapidly deflates. I’m met by a waiter who reminds me of Michel, the haughty concierge from the Gilmore Girls (yes, I’m a sad, sad man for even knowing this), who looks almost disgusted when I tell him I’m by myself and, even though it’s the middle of the week and half the tables outside are free, he tells me I have to sit inside – and leads me to a table hidden in a corner where I won’t offend too many people with my presence.

This doesn’t sit well with me and I’d normally argue but, to be honest, I had spotted a woman outside who I once had a dalliance with and so I decide that maybe I’m better off inside after all (there’s also a courtyard to the side that is deserted, with chairs up on tables, but it looks too lonely even for me).

Another waiter who’s much more welcoming then comes to serve me and I order a glass of the Solar Viejo 2005 crianza and the garlic prawns with black rice (made with ink squid), shallots and aioli (a thick, creamy garlic sauce).

The crianza is gorgeous – there’s no other word for it (technically, the word crianza means the wine has been kept in an oak barrel for a year). The flavours are well balanced, making this seem light and certainly delightful to drink, and the aroma smacks of goodness – to be honest, if I wasn’t still smarting over the Gilmore Girls waiter I’d go straight to the bottle shop attached to Delicado and buy a bottle.

The prawns arrive and at first sight I’m not impressed – for $22 there are just three of them nestled on black rice. However, I change my mind as soon as I try them. The prawns are full of flavour, the aioli adds some zing, but it’s the rice that’s the standout. Last time I had black rice was in Spain, where the flavour was overpowering, but this version is fantastic: creamy (and much softer than the black rice I had in Spain) and with a slightly smoky flavour (I suspect they might have used smoked paprika and certainly some white wine in making this). I don’t know enough about black rice to be able to say which dish is more authentic, but I definitely think the Delicado one is the winner.

Unfortunately my North Shore maiden never swooped on me (I can go without the ravishing, but the slave-made cocktails would have been nice), and to be honest I won’t ever come back to Delicado by myself – but the food and wine are good enough for me to maybe come back with a friend the next time I feel a strong Spanish craving.

Now it’s your turn – how do you rate Delicado?
(7 votes, average: 3.29 out of 5)
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Delicado, 134 Blues Point Road, McMahons Point. Phone 9955 9399 or see the Delicado website. Open six days Tuesday to Sunday. Breakfast until 11:30am (they serve bloody marys after 11am) and lunch and dinner until 10pm.

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