The Beresford Hotel – Surry Hills
Whether you love or hate The Beresford can depend on when you visit. The first time Bar Zine walked in was on a Wednesday and it seemed like nirvana. The doorman actually smiled at us and inside we saw the kind of bar that normally only exists in old Hollywood movies. A grand 1920s-style circular wooden bar counter (made of Tasmanian oak) stands in the middle while the rest of the bar’s décor matches (think tiles and art deco curves). We immediately planted ourselves on a bar stool, ordered cocktails and felt like we found our new headquarters.
On a Friday night, however, the bar can fill up so much you have to fight tooth and nail for a bar stool or one of the lounges – and that’s if the barman lets you in (the last time I went on a Friday the doorman scowled at me and my friends before begrudgingly allowing us in and dismissing the guy behind us for wearing sneakers). A female friend of mine had a similar experience, despite looking like a model (I also know an ex-model who was refused entry to a certain Kings Street wharf bar when she turned up with a bunch of her female friends – go figure).
Door politics aside, however, The Beresford is still worth visiting for its unique retro style – and its cocktail list.
Being a huge fan of Aperol (an Italian aperitif containing bitter orange, gentian, rhubarb, and cinchona), I order the New Yorker , which combines Aperol with Absolut Citron, smashed peach, lemon and soda. This is as refreshing as it sounds and a civilised cocktail worthy of its name (although we’d still like to see a great cocktail called The Sydney).
A companion of mine in dire need of a pick-me-up tries the Bourke Street Wallbanger , which is made with Remy Martin cognac, espresso, maple syrup and Toussaint (a dry coffee liqueur originating from Haiti that has espresso, cocoa, vanilla and subtle liquorice overtones). Espresso cocktails are appearing more often on menus these days and this one is strong and gives my friend the pick-up he needs – though I prefer to keep my caffeine and alcohol habits distinct from each other, especially when you can order a classic like a margarita.
The Beresford gives a choice of tequilas but we opt for the house one (which from memory is Jose Cuervo, but don’t quote me on that). For $15 we can’t complain – in fact, it’s the best margarita that both myself and my cocktail companion have had in a long time. Before you think this review is too gushing, however, we then go back to the Beresford on a Monday night and have a mixed experience.
We start with a beer, followed by a glass of Chivas Regal (which for $8.50 each definitely does the job), and then my companion orders a whiskey sour, even though it’s not on the menu, while I order an Americano. The reason I do this is because the bar seems to take pride in their negronis and its various permutations – you can order it as a single drink or as a carafe and choose from the classic style (Plymouth gin, Cinzano Rosso sweet vermouth and Campari) to the Americano (which has soda instead of gin).
As soon as we order, however, the lights go on, the music stops, and the bar stops serving drinks – meaning by the time our cocktails are served people are already filing out. I’m sorry, but really: customers should at least be warned that this is going to happen while their order is being taken.
The Americano ($14) is fantastic – I absolutely can’t fault it. As much as I love negronis I personally believe that this is a better version, as it brings out the great flavours of the vermouth and the Campari while being immensely easy to drink (although my companion thinks it’s too bitter). On the flipside, however, the whiskey sour is, to put it as nicely as possible, the worst we’ve ever tasted, making us wonder if the bartender tasted it himself before serving it.
The music here varies from garage rock and indie to hip hop and funk, while the crowd is very Surry Hills; both gay and straight and slightly edgy. It seems like a lot of people also come here for the food, with the Italian trattoria earning good reviews.
The Beresford, 354 Bourke St, Surry Hills (across from the St. Margaret’s complex). Phone 02 9357 1111, or see the Beresford bar website. Open Monday to Sunday, 11am to 1am. The trattoria is open Wednesday to Sunday, 12pm to 3pm for lunch and 6pm to 10pm for dinner.
Now it’s your turn – how do you rate The Beresford?
(3 votes, average: 2.33 out of 5)
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The beresford looks like the pub I want to love. It is located exactly where I want to go drinking but after too many attempts and second chances trying to have a nice time here I’ve given up.
I wouldn’t think that staff alone could turn a pub so sour but this is the case here. Offensive doormen and sallow, sluggish and sparse barstaff