This is probably because The Hilton already has two other bars, namely the more populist Marble Bar underneath Glass and the glam Zeta Bar on level 4. However, what the bar in Glass offers is a nice balance between these two options – it’s accessibly stylish.
If I sound enthused then it’s largely because I’m surprised. Most restaurant bars don’t feel like a destination in themselves and to be honest I only turned up to Glass because Zeta was closed for a private function on the night I went out drinking. Yet when the Amazonian Croatian and I arrive we find a decent bar area, complete with a counter and stools (which I think is necessary for a hotel bar), tables with a view (both of the street and the open kitchen area), dim lighting and the highest wine cellar I’ve ever seen (reportedly 30 metres high) behind the bar. I pity the sommelier who has to scale it.
We grab some glasses of the McHenry Hohnen tempranillo, which is decent but I swear I can detect a sweet and sour pork flavour to it. The Croatian, however, thinks this might be the warning sign of a stroke for me.
As such we then go for some medicinal cocktails. I try the Charlie Chaplin, made with apricot brandy, Plymouth sloe gin and lime juice, and it’s great – in fact, it’s perfect. Bright red in colour, it has a tang to it without being too sour and an apricot sweetness without being sickly. Meanwhile, the Croatian is happy with her margarita, made with Patron Silver, Cointreau, agave syrup and lime juice, and which is as smooth as the jazz playing in the background.
In short, while Glass is mainly noteworthy for its impressively large wine collection, I’d personally come back for the cocktails – and in the hope that I might see a waiter scaling that 30 metre wine wall.
Glass, Level 2, 488 George Street, Hilton Sydney. See the Glass website. Open every day.
Now it’s your turn – how do you rate Glass?